Where do all the cool kids take darhan?

[chinu]

Namaste All!

I recently solidified some plans with my mother in law to visit India in January! Needless to say, I'm very excited. It will be my first visit. Since it will be very different than any other place I've gone and because I think my MIL is a little nervous about it, we are going with an organized tour.

That being said,whenever we are given free time, you bet your biscuits I'm going to be visiting as many temples as possible. (My MIL essentially knows I'm Hindu, hasn't expressed an opinion about it, and will probably want to see them from a tourist standpoint anyway.)

Our trip will comprise the following cities: New Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur, and Mumbai. (There is also a possibility that we will be going to Varanasi, which I would love, so recommendations there would be appreciated too.)

Very excited. This must be a little what my Catholic parents felt like when they went to Rome. My only regret is that we won't have time to visit South India. That's going to have to be a separate trip. It has my eyeing the 5 year visitor visa option.

:camp:

I think you also must visit "HARIDWAR" district of Uttarakhand in India. This alone city has more than 500 big and small temples. You must

 

[chinu]

And also tell if you are looking for "Real-God"

 

[chinu]

I will show you around and not let you fall in the hands of touts

Why are you frightening her ?

 

[ShivaFan]

Actually, it looks like you already bought a "package" for New Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur, and Mumbai. with a side trip likely for Varanasi.

That is ok for a first time to India, really the first time is more about getting a feel of the logistics, overcoming "culture shock" in some cases (this will NOT be like the experience of your local temple, and there are all sorts of Indians not just Hindus).

So no, this does not need to be a big religious moment like specifically going to Varanasi or Haridwar with vast temples, tirthas etc.. But even with this "grand tour package" there will be no avoidance of great religious moments.

My wife can give great recommendations regarding Mumbai, I can chime in on the others but you will probably often be leaving from your booked hotels with others (both foreigners but you will be surprised at the large number of locals and Indians on your booked bus tours) so you will be going to fixed locations.

But the Indian state run tours out of hotels (charted with private tour agencies) are actually very good compared to the USA actually, they get you to the important, exciting and often very religious sites. When I get a chance, I might suggest some sites in the locations you list, but the tours for a first timer are not bad.

There are lots of little tour agencies and transport agencies run from small shops near every hotel you stay, these are quite good actually but pay only cash rupees.

Give me a chance I will post more, but IN GENERAL:

* You will be going to the Taj Mahal in Agra. You will never forget it and will want to return again. Bring a good camera, and if facing the front of the Taj Mahal proper, take time to go to your left, enter a building over there where you can take photos OUT THROUGH THE WINDOWS of the adjunct for fantastic "window framed" photos of the Taj. See everything, many hours worth.

* I might mention some Hindu temples, but ... also go to a Jain Temple, a Suffi Saint tomb, Sikh Temple. I will get back.

* Have lots of rupees cash to buy wonderful crafts, art, religious items. Cash only. Don't feel sorry when you get home and didn't buy over stupid haggling of price, and keep one bag or luggage just for these.

* Bring "baby wipes" packs (in small pouch folds) to wipe your face and hands on those bus rides.

* Rickshaws are outlawed now in many cities or downtown, and while there is a lot of dark history past and present, ride one to get from here to there. It will be special, and give you a frontline view of life.

* Make friends with those on any tour. They are often just like you, and love the same things.

 

[ShivaFan]

... and for your in-law, dress COMFORTABLY in solid color cottons and slip on shoes. For you, dress COMFORTABLY and LOCALLY with slip on or sandal and simple (not too fancy) salwar kameez. You probably already have salwar kameez to bring or you might try on and buy BEFORE you leave for India.

... forgot to say, while it is easy to exchange money in the hotels, you probably exchange and take some rupees BEFORE you leave to India to have handy right there out of the airport when you land for taxi or whatever without wasting time on the first day. Bring some small items for "gifts" (or bribes).

 

[ShivaFan]

"Varanasi 2 nights"
... RIDE ON A BOAT ON THE GANGA! It is MUST!
... go see death at Manikarnika and think. Talk later.

 

[Aupmanyav]

Dehli 2 nights
Jaipur 2 nights (One night we plan to spend with my Hindi tutors, who live here)
Agra 2 night
Khajuraho 1 night
Varanasi 2 nights

I do not see Mumbai in the itinerary. If you are staying in Jaipur for 2 nights, then Pushkar is a natural choice, where Lord Brahma rested after creating the universe. Agra 2 nights means including Fatehpur Sikri, the failed capital of Emperor Akbar, its huge gate Buland Darwana and the shrine of Khwaja Saleemuddin Chishti. Your itinerary adds to 9 days. Where are you going to spend 2 days? Haridwar is a nice option as Chinu said. Just like Varanasi, one of the vertebras of Hindu spine.

 

[Fireside_Hindu]

I do not see Mumbai in the itinerary. If you are staying in Jaipur for 2 nights, then Pushkar is a natural choice, where Lord Brahma rested after creating the universe. Agra 2 nights means including Fatehpur Sikri, the failed capital of Emperor Akbar, its huge gate Buland Darwana and the shrine of Khwaja Saleemuddin Chishti. Your itinerary adds to 9 days. Where are you going to spend 2 days? Haridwar is a nice option as Chinu said. Just like Varanasi, one of the vertebras of Hindu spine.

I'm excluding travel days and Mumbai is no longer on the itinerary because we had to go with a different, shorter tour.

I appreciate everyone's advice. I do believe a boat ride on the Ganges is in order (I have entertained the thought of "accidentally" falling in to the river as we reach the center, but that's just the crazy in me talking.)

:camp:

 

[ShivaFan]

... AIRPORTS (leaving airport to hotel):

* you will be travelling with a relative. I am not sure if this in-law is seasoned with travel to India. I suspect not. So probably the first "touch down" will be Delhi. If you go by taxi to your hotel, review below about the Varanasi airport touch down because what I describe below can happen in Delhi though not as "frantic" and exclude the petrol station part of it and the burning garbage can. Besides what I describe below regarding touch down in Varanasi, in Delhi in the taxi as you head out to your hotel destination, your in law may slightly freak out. There is a part of the initial drive which may cause initial "fear", and if they haven't fixed the sewer situation yet (about 10 kilometers in) there will be the "smells". Everything will be fine, keep talking to your in law to "distract". The taxi may about 2 times go against one way traffic in the other lane, hang in there. Everything will be fine.

* Varanasi airport is small. Depending on how full your plane was, the "queue" heading to the "table" and "counter" (customs yadda) may fall apart and turn into a mass short of like a crowd pushing forward (no queue) with hands-arms extended with papers and such and might go frantic but you will be ok.

... but once you get past that and outside, one luggage may be picked up and heading left while another luggage picked up by another taxi driver heading right - they are not stealing your luggage, they are fighting with each other to be your customer. They may start yelling at each other and then run to the other taxi to try and grab the luggage and put it on their taxi. So control closely your luggage as soon as you come out and just go with the first taxi. As far as price, there are typically two fares, the official one and the one about 5 times higher for foreigners. Clarify the total price right away. But don't haggle about the higher cheater price as it is still a great deal compared to America and the driver will like you.

... from the Varanasi airport to your hotel, the driver will likely stop for petrol way before downtown if late afternoon. That is the most "dangerous" moment, don't get out of the taxi and don't show your face if possible.

... do not taxi from the Varanasi airport to the hotel at night if possible, depending on the hotel destination (I stay at the Clarks, there is a "booney" part of the drive - Clarks Hotel Varanasi). There might be a burning barrel or garbage can rolled out into the road to try and stop the taxi and take your stuff but the taxi will turn around prior or "run through it". If turn around, you might end up at some other hotel. The driver may turn his headlights off at night during portions of the drive to "save on the lamp life". This will be more common if the taxi is an Ambassador.

... in the Clarks, and others in Varanasi, though nice hotel, you might be running the air conditioner at night, then turn it off to sleep. Mosquitos will fly out from the central air vents and bite or drive you nuts. You may want to cover the vents with masking tape.

... heavy traffic jams my occur in Varanasi and stop your bus going over a bridge, folks will open the windows, that is when the mosquitos will attack while you sit on top of the river or creek. So have bug spray or ointment ready.

 

[Vinayaka]

I would hope that a well run tour group would not encounter such problems. These things do happen when you go off on your own though.

 

[Fireside_Hindu]

I would hope that a well run tour group would not encounter such problems. These things do happen when you go off on your own though.

One would hope.

A good (or maybe a bad) thing is that from the airport on arrival there is someone who is supposed to meet us, so we'll pass on the experience of trying to get a cab on our own. At some point, when I sneak away, I may try my hand at one and be brave - provided it is safe to do so.

Here's a question - how walkable are some of these northern cities? If I can, I would love to just walk around and see things on foot.

Are they like US midwestern cities that sort of sprawl for miles and miles or are they more like Boston or NY (you can walk from one end to the other in a day)

:camp:

PS. Thank you SFji - I really appreciate your (and others) experience in this matter.

:

 

[Vinayaka]

A good (or maybe a bad) thing is that from the airport on arrival there is someone who is supposed to meet us.

:

That is a good thing, but there will be quite a few like you ... are you arriving at Delhi? If so, just outside the doors there will be a barrier and about 100 people holding up placards with your name on it. You just walk along and find your name. From there it will be a breeze.

Walking will depend on the area. You have to be careful for cyclists, etc.

Purchase and wear a good money belt ... your MIL too.

 

[Fireside_Hindu]

That is a good thing, but there will be quite a few like you ... are you arriving at Delhi? If so, just outside the doors there will be a barrier and about 100 people holding up placards with your name on it. You just walk along and find your name. From there it will be a breeze.

Walking will depend on the area. You have to be careful for cyclists, etc.

Purchase and wear a good money belt ... your MIL too.

I'm on it! ( I have one already, actually, that's never been used.) Also, I bought us LifeStraws in case we do end up needing to drink the local water for some reason.

:camp:

 

[ShivaFan]

FH, the taxis are SAFE. Sounds like you have everything organized so it is going to be great. The problem is not the taxi driver, in fact I love them like brothers and my dream is if I had a billion dollars I would start my OWN cab company and hire. The problem as anywhere in the world is bad characters and goondas.

I also hire private drivers when in India. You can get fantastic drivers who really know how to get around.

Back to cabbies, i get the ones who carry hard bamboo rods and batons who can jump out and beat someone if need be, once some goon dalits went at us in an odd place in Kolkata and the driver gave them the rod. They will protect you.

Actually I find the luggage deal entertaining and hold nothing against them, i tip high too. But you will be escorted, so no problem.

 

[Vinayaka]

The higher end hotels will gladly find you an excellent driver or call a respected cab, so you don't need to go find one yourself. Many hotels have travel desks just for this purpose.

 

[Fireside_Hindu]

FH, the taxis are SAFE. Sounds like you have everything organized so it is going to be great. The problem is not the taxi driver, in fact I love them like brothers and my dream is if I had a billion dollars I would start my OWN cab company and hire. The problem as anywhere in the world is bad characters and goondas.

I also hire private drivers when in India. You can get fantastic drivers who really know how to get around.

Back to cabbies, i get the ones who carry hard bamboo rods and batons who can jump out and beat someone if need be, once some goon dalits went at us in an odd place in Kolkata and the driver gave them the rod. They will protect you.

Actually I find the luggage deal entertaining and hold nothing against them, i tip high too. But you will be escorted, so no problem.

I am doing my best to have an honest and practical view. I want to have a full experience - get to know people. I'm a shy person, which is terrible when you actually kind of like most people.

I have no doubt that most people in this world, regardless of where the are from, are good people. There are some bad apples to be aware of, but I don't want to hide in a whole and never go anywhere.

That being said, it is realistic to expect that my experience will be different because I am female and white, but I'm going to try and pretend like I don't care. (Because I don't, ultimately)

Really, I'm just very thrilled and feel very grateful that I am privileged enough to have the chance of traveling to far from what I know. I hope to learn a lot. I'm going to buy a nice journal to take with me, and write down what happens each day. I did that for my first trip to Ireland and it's an amazing time capsule of information.

:camp:

 

[Aupmanyav]

(I have entertained the thought of "accidentally" falling in to the river as we reach the center, but that's just the crazy in me talking.)

"Kashi Karvat" (the last turn from one side to the other in Kashi). I thought it was rolling down the steps of ghats straight into Mother Ganges.

If you need a dependable driver cab in Delhi, let me know; if in Varanasi, my wife's brother can arrange one. He now lives in Lucknow but has lived in Varanasi for ages. He was a liquor merchant. Connections, they work excellently in India. Have a dear college friend in Jaipur whose wife was curator of Jaipur Museum.

 

[chinu]

"Kashi Karvat" (the last turn from one side to the other in Kashi). I thought it was rolling down the steps of ghats straight into Mother Ganges.

If you need a dependable driver cab in Delhi, let me know; if in Varanasi, my wife's brother can arrange one. He now lives in Lucknow but has lived in Varanasi for ages. He was a liquor merchant. Connections, they work excellently in India. Have a dear college friend in Jaipur whose wife was curator of Jaipur Museum.

You can easily manage a big travel agency, my friend.

 

[Aupmanyav]

Oh, I am too old for that and too lazy to take all the trouble.

 

[Fireside_Hindu]

I'm in the process of filling out my travel visa forms and saw something interesting. The form asks for your religious identity and "Hindu" is an option, which I obviously checked off.

So, does this show up on the actual visa? (I've never applied for one) If so, do you think it could be something that might help me get into temples normally off limits to foreigners?

Also, on a side note - as with the first few times I openly said to others," Yes, I am Hindu", there was something tremendously freeing about checking it off as an identifier on a form . I don't know why. It shouldn't matter, but in a small way it seems to.

:camp: